Navigating the world of skincare can be overwhelming, especially when faced with an ingredient list that looks more like a chemistry textbook. Add in the difference between regulations in the U.S. and the European Union (EU), and it becomes clear why consumers often feel lost. This blog post breaks down the most important points about banned and restricted ingredients and how brands formulate differently for global markets. Let's dive in!

 

Why Ingredient Safety Standards Vary Across Regions

The EU widely regarded as a global leader in cosmetic safety, banning or restricting over 1,300 ingredients in skincare products under the EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009. In contrast, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has only banned or restricted around 11 ingredients. These discrepancies arise from differences in how each region assesses ingredient safety. The EU's proactive approach puts consumers health first, while the U.S. tends to rely more on retrospective safety data. 

For consumers, this means products sold under the same brand name can have vastly different formulations depending on the market.

 

5 Toxic Ingredients to Avoid and Their Regulations

1| PARABENS (METHYLPARABEN, ETHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN, ISOBUTYLPARABEN, ISOPROPYLPARABEN, BENZYLPARABEN)

Health Risks: Parabens are known to mimic estrogen in the body, potentially disrupting hormonal balance. This has raised concerns about links to breast cancer and reproductive issues.

Found In: Moisturizers, foundations, shampoos, deodorants, body washes.

EU: Certain parabens like Isobutylparaben and Isopropylparaben are banned, while others are strongly restricted to safe concentration limits.

U.S.: Parabens are permitted without strict restrictions.

 

2| PHTHALATES (DBP, DEHP)

Health Risks: Phthalates are classified as endocrine disruptors and have been linked to developmental and reproductive toxicity, as well as potential effect on fetal development.

Found In: Fragrances, nail polishes, hair sprays, lotions.

EU: Many phthalates are banned due to their classifications as endocrine disruptors.

U.S.: Certain phthalates are allowed, especially in fragrances.

 

3| SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE (SLS) AND SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (SLES)

Health Risks: SLS and SLES can cause skin irritation, dryness, and allergic reactions. They are also associated with contamination by 1,4-dioxane, a probable human carcinogen.

Found In: Shampoos, facial cleansers, body washes, bubble baths, toothpastes.

EU: These are not banned but strictly regulated to minimize contamination with 1,4-dioxane.

U.S.: Permitted without restrictions.

 

4| FORMALDEHYDE AND FORMALDEHYDE-RELEASING AGENTS (DMDM HYDANTOIN, IMIDAZOLIDINYL UREA, DIAZOLIDINYL UREA, QUATERNIUM-15, BRONOPOL, 5-BROMO-5-NITRO-1,3-DIOXANE, SODIUM HYDROXYMETHYLGLYCINATE)

Health Risks: Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen that has been linked to cancer, allergic reactions and respiratory issues. Formaldehyde-releasing agents like DMDM hydantoin can slowly release this toxic compound over time.

Found In: Nail polishes, hair treatments, moisturizers, cleansers.

EU: Formaldehyde is banned outright, and formaldehyde-releasing agents are heavily restricted.

U.S.: Formaldehyde is permitted in small amounts.

 

5| SYNTHETIC FRAGRANCES (LABELED 'FRAGRANCE' OR 'PERFUME')

Health Risks: Synthetic fragrances can contain hundreds of undisclosed chemicals, including allergens and endocrine disruptors like phthalates. They can trigger allergies, skin sensitivity, respiratory problems and hormone disruption.

Found In: Perfumes, lotions, shampoos, deodorants, sunscreens.

EU: Fragrance allergens must be labeled, and certain compounds like phthalates are restricted.

U.S.: Fragrance formulas are considered trade secrets and not fully disclosed.

 

Do Brands Formulate Differently for the U.S. and EU?

Yes, many brands adjust their formulations to comply with local regulations. Here are some examples:

Neutrogena: Uses different UV filters in sunscreen for the U.S. (oxybenzone, avobenzone) versus the EU (Mexoryl SX, Tinosorb S, considered as a safer option in Europe)

CeraVe: Reformulates moisturizers and cleansers to exclude parabens for the EU market.

Dove: Removes formaldehyde-releasing agents from shampoos and conditioners sold in EU.

La Roche-Posay: Uses advanced UV filters in the EU that are not FDA-approved in the U.S.

 

This highlights the importance of checking ingredients labels, as a product's formulations may vary depending on where it's sold.

 

What to Avoid in Your Beauty Products Quick Sheet

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How to Stay Informed About Ingredient Safety

 Here are some simple and effective ways to stay informed:

1| Use Trusted Apps: Download apps like Think Dirtyor EWG's Healthy Living. These tools allow you to scan product barcodes and instantly get safety rating and information on potentially harmful ingredients.

2| Follow Reliable Organizations: Keep an eye on organizations like Environmental Working Group (EWG)or Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. They regularly share easy-to-understand updates on ingredient safety and tips for choosing better products.

3| Look for Certifications: Choose products with certifications like ECOCERT, USDA Organic, NON-GMO or COSMOS Standard. These labels ensure that the products meet strict safety and environmental standards. However, it's important to note that not all brands, especially small business brands, can afford organic certifications, even if they use certified organic ingredients in their formulations. In such cases, transparency from the brand about their sourcing and practices becomes even more critical. 

By leveraging these resources, you can make more informed choices without spending hours researching. And remember, supporting a trusted brand that aligns with your values can simplify the process even further.

 

Keep Glowing, Naturally! xoLenka